Engraving and relief
Engraving, chasing, repoussé, filigree, granulation and stamping.
18 entries
Jewelry around the world
Aboriginal shell necklaces and engraved pearl shell
Tasmanian Aboriginal women string tiny iridescent shells; in northern Australia, pearl shell is engraved: jewels with living memory.
Techniques
Chasing and repoussé
Repoussé pushes metal from behind to create relief and chasing defines it from the front, on a bed of pitch; an ancient goldsmithing technique.
Techniques
Etching and photo-etching
Etching corrodes metal with acid or electricity in the unprotected areas to create designs and relief; photo-etching uses a photosensitive film.
Techniques
Filigree: lace of metal wire
Filigree forms designs with extremely fine gold or silver wires, twisted and soldered; traditions from Europe, India (Karimnagar, Cuttack) and the Americas.
Techniques
Granulation: tiny spheres of gold
Granulation fixes tiny metal spheres onto a surface without visible solder; a technique of the Etruscans that demands precision and patience.
Techniques
Guilloché: geometric engine turning
Guilloché is a mechanical engraving of interlaced geometric lines made with a rose engine; used in watches, boxes and Fabergé eggs, and as a base for enamel.
Techniques
Hand and laser engraving in jewelry
Engraving cuts lines and letters into metal with gravers or a laser: styles (bright cut, monograms, Florentine), tools and uses.
Techniques
Inlay in jewelry
Inlay fits stone, mother-of-pearl, wood, enamel or resin into a recess in the metal, flush with the surface; from marquetry to hardstone.
Tools
Jewelry spatulas and chisels
Jewelry spatulas and chisels are used to model wax and to shape and finish cast metal; types, uses and sharpening.
Techniques
Lasers in jewelry: cutting, engraving and cleaning
Lasers cut, engrave, mark and clean metal with great precision: hallmarking, ring engraving, cutting pieces and welding.
Techniques
Leather jewelry: braiding, stamping and riveting
Leather jewelry is cut, braided, stamped, dyed and riveted: bracelets, necklaces and straps, with edge finishing and clasps.
Techniques
Niello: the black that makes the engraving stand out
Niello fills an engraving with a black mix of metallic sulfides melted in; it gives strong contrast on silver and has been used since Roman times.
Jewelry
Personalized and engraved jewelry
Guide to personalized jewelry: names, initials, dates and coordinates engraved by hand, laser or in relief; which pieces allow engraving and how to choose it.
Techniques
Sawing and piercing: cutting and hollowing metal
Piercing cuts shapes and openings in metal with a jeweler's saw and a bench pin; blades, technique and decorative openwork.
Jewelry
Signet rings: history, engraving and how to wear them
A signet ring carries an engraved crest, initials or emblem, and was used to seal documents in wax; history, types of engraving, materials and how to wear one.
Techniques
Sinking, raising and dapping: hollow forms
Sinking and dapping give volume to a metal sheet: domes, bowls and hollow beads with dapping blocks, wooden blocks and stakes.
Techniques
Stamping and die striking
Stamping imprints a relief on metal with punches and dies (by hammer or press); used for textures, hallmarks and serial pieces.
Techniques
Texturing metal surfaces in jewelry
Texturing gives relief to the metal surface: hammered finishes, rolling-mill textures, bark, burs, sandblasting and stamping.