Inlay in jewelry

To inlay is to cut a recess with the exact shape of a material and fit it flush with the surface. It is used with stones, mother-of-pearl, wood, enamel, resin and other metals.

How it is done #

1. The recess is drawn and cut in the metal.
2. The inlay material is cut to fit precisely.
3. It is glued with a suitable adhesive (epoxy) or fixed mechanically.
4. It is sanded and polished flush.

Types #

• Marquetry: pieces of wood or mother-of-pearl.
• Hardstone and pietra dura: a mosaic of stones.
• Resin inlay with stone powder.
• Metals on metals: such as damascening.

Materials #

Mother-of-pearl, turquoise, coral, onyx, lapis lazuli, amber.

Tips #

Fit the cut very precisely: a poorly fitted inlay shows.

Step by step #

1. Design. Draw the shape on the piece.
2. Hollow out. Cut the recess with a bur or graver.
3. Fit. Cut the inlay piece to size.
4. Glue or fix. With adhesive, resin or pressure.
5. Level. File and sand until flush.
6. Polish. Brighten the surface.

Tools and materials #

• Burs and gravers
• Stone, mother-of-pearl, wood or resin to inlay
• Epoxy adhesive or resin
• Sandpaper of various grits

Common mistakes #

• Recess larger than the piece: a gap remains.
• Too much glue: it stains the edge.
• Sanding carelessly and scratching the stone.
• Choosing materials that expand differently.

See also #

• Damascening
• Mother-of-pearl and shells
• Resin