Mother-of-pearl and shells

Mother-of-pearl, or nacre, is the shiny, iridescent inner layer of the shells of many mollusks, the same material that forms pearls. Shells are cut, polished and carved into beads, pendants, cameos and inlays that reflect light in pink, green, blue and silver tones.

Properties #

• Composition: calcium carbonate (aragonite) and conchiolin arranged in very thin layers.
• Hardness: around 3.5 on the Mohs scale.
• Look: iridescent, with reflections that shift with the angle of light.
• Common species: pearl oyster, abalone or paua, conch, clam shell and cowrie.
• Ways of working: beads, sheets, carved cameos and inlays (marquetry)

Uses in jewelry #

• Shell beads and pendants.
• Carved relief cameos.
• Inlays in rings, watches and wood.
• Earrings and necklaces with a marine inspiration.

Pros and cons #

Advantages #

• Natural iridescent shine.
• Light and easy to carve.
• Every piece is different.

Limitations #

• It scratches and chips easily.
• Acids, perfume and sweat dull the shine.
• It should come from responsible harvesting.

Care and cleaning #

• Avoid chemicals and prolonged water.
• Wipe with a soft damp cloth and dry immediately.
• Store it so it does not rub against harder jewelry.

See also #

• Pearls
• Coral
• Bone and ivory