Pearls

Pearls are the only gems that form inside a living creature. A mollusk, such as an oyster or mussel, coats an irritant with layers of nacre and, over time, a pearl is born. Today almost all pearls sold are cultured: a person introduces the nucleus, but the mollusk does the actual forming.

Properties #

• Composition: calcium carbonate (aragonite) and an organic substance, conchiolin, in concentric layers of nacre.
• Hardness: between 2.5 and 4.5 on the Mohs scale: they scratch easily.
• Origin: saltwater (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea) or freshwater (most cultured pearls)
• Grading: luster, shape (round, oval, baroque), surface, color and size.
• Colors: white, cream, pink, golden, gray and black, with overtones.

Uses in jewelry #

• Classic strands of knotted pearls.
• Stud or drop earrings.
• Rings, brooches and pendants with a single pearl.
• Baroque pearls in contemporary designer jewelry.

Pros and cons #

Advantages #

• Soft, elegant, timeless glow.
• A wide range of colors and shapes.
• They combine with metals and stones.

Limitations #

• They are soft and sensitive to acids, perfume and sweat.
• The nacre wears over time.
• Glass and plastic imitations exist.

Care and cleaning #

• Put them on last, after makeup and perfume, and take them off first.
• Wipe them after each wear with a soft damp cloth.
• Store them apart in a cloth pouch so they do not scratch.
• Restring on silk thread every few years if worn often.

See also #

• Mother-of-pearl and shells
• Coral
• Amber