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Filigree: lace of metal wire

· 1 min read · Techniques

Illustration: Filigree: lace of metal wire

Filigree builds the piece from very fine metal wires, twisted and coiled, soldered into a lace. It is one of the most delicate techniques in goldsmithing.

Steps of the technique: Make the wire, Flatten, Shape, Arrange, Solder, Polish
Summary of the steps

How it is done #

  1. Very fine metal wires are drawn and twisted together to give a cord.
  2. The wire is flattened and bent into spirals, leaves and scrolls, which are filled in following a design.
  3. The parts are soldered to each other and to a frame or base.

Traditions #

It is ancient in the Mediterranean and appears in the metalwork of Portugal, Spain and Italy; in India, Karimnagar silver filigree and Cuttack's tarakasi; in the Americas, the filigree of Mompox (Colombia) and Peru.

Types #

Framed filigree (with an edge surrounding the design) and applied filigree (on a plain surface).

Tips #

It is very fragile: avoid knocks and clean it with a soft brush.

Step by step #

  1. Make the wire. Draw fine wire and twist it into cord.
  2. Flatten. Pass the wire through the rolling mill if needed.
  3. Shape. Bend spirals and scrolls with tweezers.
  4. Arrange. Lay the motifs within the frame.
  5. Solder. Join the wires with powdered solder.
  6. Polish. Clean and brighten.

Tools and materials #

  • Fine silver or gold wire
  • Fine-point tweezers
  • Powdered solder and flux
  • Loupe and good light

Common mistakes #

  • Using too much solder: the pattern is clogged.
  • Uneven wires.
  • Heating suddenly: the wires melt.
  • Not resting your eyes.

See also #

This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.