Hand and laser engraving in jewelry
To engrave is to remove metal with a graver to draw lines, letters or motifs. It is one of the finest crafts in jewelry and the basis of seals and monograms.
With a graver #
The piece is held in an engraver's ball and the graver, pushed with the palm of the hand, cuts a chip of metal. There are flat gravers, point gravers (onglette) and lozenge gravers.
Styles #
- Bright cut: polished facets that reflect light.
- Line and shading: drawing with fine strokes.
- Letters and monograms: in script or block lettering.
- Florentine: crossed lines that give a satin finish.
Machine and laser #
Pantograph engraving and lasers allow quick, regular lettering, and are common on rings and plates. A laser can engrave the inside of a ring with great precision.
Tips #
Ask to see a sample of the typeface and how many characters fit; on curved surfaces, a machine is safer than hand engraving.
Step by step #
- Sharpen the graver. Form the edge and check that it cuts cleanly.
- Hold the piece. Secure it in the engraver's ball.
- Trace. Draw the design with a scribe.
- Engrave. Push the graver in one continuous furrow.
- Remove the burr. Take off the raised metal.
- Polish. Tidy up with charcoal or fine sandpaper.
Tools and materials #
- Gravers of various shapes
- Engraver's ball and holder
- Loupe or microscope (loupe)
- Sharpening stone
Common mistakes #
- Badly sharpened graver: it slips and scratches.
- Pushing with the arm instead of the palm.
- Engraving on a loose piece.
- Cutting too deep: no metal left.
See also #
This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.