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Stone settings: types and how to choose

· 2 min read · Techniques

Illustration: Stone settings: types and how to choose

A setting is the way a stone is held in a piece of jewelry. It determines how much light the stone gets, how secure it is and the look of the piece.

Six types of stone setting in side view
Setting types: how each holds the stone

The main settings #

  • Prong: small metal claws hold the stone; lets light through.
  • Bezel: a metal rim surrounds the stone; the most secure.
  • Channel: stones line up between two walls of metal.
  • Pavé: many small stones, set very close.
  • Tension: the stone is held by the pressure of the band itself.
  • Invisible: stones join with no visible metal between them.
  • Flush: the stone sits level with the surface.

Cluster settings #

They combine settings and stones: the halo surrounds the center stone with a ring of small stones; the cluster groups stones to give the impression of one larger stone; the three-stone represents past, present and future.

How to choose #

For daily wear, a bezel or flush setting protects best; to show off the stone, prongs; for a band of brilliants, channel or pavé. The hardness of the stone also counts: a soft stone needs protection.

How it is done #

The seat is opened with burs and the stone put in; then the prongs, bezel or walls are closed with pushers, punches and burnishers. It is work of great precision.

How to choose between settings #

  • Maximum light: prongs.
  • Maximum protection: bezel or flush.
  • Many small stones: pavé or channel.
  • Minimalist look: tension or invisible.

Checking a setting #

With the loupe (loupe), check that the prongs touch the stone, that there is no play or worn metal, and gently move the jewel near your ear: if you hear a rattle, the stone is moving.

See also #

This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.