ES

Invisible (mystery) setting

· Updated · 1 min read · Techniques

Illustration: Invisible (mystery) setting

The invisible (or “mystery”) setting joins cut stones, usually princess cuts, with no visible metal between them. They form a continuous surface of color and sparkle.

Steps of the technique: Cut the stones, Make the grid, Slide, Close the ends, Check, Polish
Summary of the steps

How it works #

Each stone has a groove cut in its base (pavilion). The stones slide onto a hidden metal grid beneath, which holds them.

History #

It was patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933 under the name “serti mystérieux”, and became famous in flower and leaf jewels of rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

Difficulty #

It requires stones cut to measure with great precision, so it is an expensive technique.

Care #

It is fragile: avoid knocks and ultrasonic cleaning.

Step by step #

  1. Cut the stones. With a groove in the girdle.
  2. Make the grid. Build a mesh with rails.
  3. Slide. Insert the stones along the rails.
  4. Close the ends. Fix and seal the row.
  5. Check. Verify there is no play.
  6. Polish. Finish the surface.

Tools and materials #

  • Stones with a grooved girdle
  • Metal grid
  • Microscope or loupe
  • Precision tools

Common mistakes #

  • Stones of different sizes.
  • Grooves too shallow.
  • Excessive heat.
  • Trying to repair it without a specialist.

See also #

This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.