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Tension setting

· 1 min read · Techniques

Illustration: Tension setting

The tension setting seems to defy gravity: the stone hangs between the ends of the band, which press it in tiny grooves.

Steps of the technique: Calculate the tension, Cut the grooves, Open the band, Insert, Release, Check
Summary of the steps

How it works #

The band is made of a hard, springy metal and the grooves are cut with great precision. The pressure of the metal holds the stone.

Requirements #

Hard metals such as platinum, titanium or 14K gold, and hard stones such as diamond, sapphire or ruby. Soft stones cannot withstand the pressure.

Limitations #

It is very hard to resize and an incorrect size can loosen the stone. It is usually an expensive piece because of the precision it demands.

Look #

Very contemporary: the stone seems to float, with no metal around it.

Step by step #

  1. Calculate the tension. Choose hard metal (platinum, 18K gold).
  2. Cut the grooves. Make an exact groove on each side.
  3. Open the band. With a press to insert the stone.
  4. Insert. Place the stone between the ends.
  5. Release. The band returns and grips.
  6. Check. Verify that it does not move.

Tools and materials #

Common mistakes #

  • Soft metal: it loses tension.
  • Imprecise groove.
  • Fragile stones: they chip.
  • Trying to change the ring size.

See also #

This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.