Bezel setting
In the bezel setting, a thin strip of metal surrounds the edge of the stone and is burnished inward to hold it. It is very secure and protects the stone's edges.
How it is done #
- The outline of the stone is measured and a strip of metal (the bezel) cut.
- It is closed, fitted and soldered to a base.
- The stone is placed and the rim is pushed and burnished over it.
Variants #
Full bezel (surrounds the entire stone) and partial or half bezel (leaves some areas free).
Ideal for #
Cabochons, soft or fragile stones and everyday jewelry. A bezel hides part of the stone and lets in less light.
Care #
It is very durable. Check that the rim is still tight against the stone.
Step by step #
- Measure. Measure the outline of the stone.
- Make the strip. Cut a thin metal strip and bend it.
- Solder. Close the band and solder it.
- Seat. Fit it to the stone and solder to the base.
- Push. Close the edge over the stone.
- Burnish and polish. With a burnisher, without forcing.
Tools and materials #
- Bezel strip (silver or gold)
- Torch and solder
- Pusher and burnisher (burnishing)
- Mandrel (mandrel)
Common mistakes #
- Bezel too high: it hides the stone.
- Strip too thick: it will not close.
- Heating with the stone in place.
- Marking the stone when burnishing.
See also #
This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.