Basic metallurgy for jewelers: how metal behaves

· 2 min read · Jeweler's dictionary

Precious and base metal, alloy, fineness, karats, hardness, malleability, melting point, cold working and annealing: a jeweler's basic metallurgy.

Ingots of gold, silver and copper

Understanding how metal behaves explains why it cracks, why it needs annealing or why a piece changes size when cast. These are the key ideas.

Kinds of metal #

  • Precious metal (metal precioso): gold, silver, platinum and palladium, among others. They are scarce and resist corrosion.
  • Base metal (metal base): copper, brass, bronze, steel, aluminum… They are cheaper and some of them tarnish.
  • Alloy (aleación): a mix of metals to change hardness, color or melting point. See jewelry alloys.

Purity #

  • Fineness (ley): the proportion of pure metal, in thousandths. Sterling 925 means 925 parts silver in every 1000. See 925 silver.
  • Karat (quilataje): the purity of gold in 24 parts. 18-karat gold is 18/24 gold, that is, 750 thousandths. It is not the same as the carat of gems: see carat and karat.
  • Purity (pureza): the general term for pure-metal content.

Mechanical properties #

  • Hardness (dureza): resistance to scratching or deformation. It is not the same as the Mohs hardness of gems.
  • Malleability (maleabilidad): the ability to be flattened into sheet without breaking. Gold and silver are very malleable.
  • Ductility (ductilidad): the ability to be drawn into wire. It is the basis of wire drawing.

Heat #

  • Melting point (punto de fusión): pure gold melts at about 1064 °C, pure silver at about 962 °C, copper at about 1085 °C and platinum at about 1768 °C.
  • Melting temperature of an alloy: not a single point but a range between the start (solidus) and the end (liquidus) of melting.
  • Shrinkage (contracción): metal shrinks as it cools, which is allowed for when casting.

Changes when you work metal #

  • Cold working (trabajo en frío): hammering, rolling, bending or drawing at room temperature. It hardens the metal and makes it brittle. Also called work hardening.
  • Internal stress (tensión del metal): stress built up by working it; it can warp or crack the piece later.
  • Annealing (recocido): heating the metal to remove hardness and stress and recover malleability. See annealing.
  • Hot working (trabajo en caliente): forging and other processes at high temperature, where the metal is softer.
  • Oxidation (oxidación): a reaction with oxygen; on copper and sterling silver it forms dark oxides. See pickling.

The practical rule #

Work the metal until you feel it push back, anneal it and carry on. Ignoring this is the most common cause of cracks.

See also: Basic metalworking operations.

This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.