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Handmade chains

· 1 min read · Techniques

Illustration: Handmade chains

Making a chain by hand is one of the jeweler's tests of patience. Each link is prepared, closed and hooked into the previous one.

Steps of the technique: Make the rings, Close, Link, Check, Polish, Add the clasp
Summary of the steps
  1. Wind the wire in a tight spiral on a mandrel.
  2. Cut the spiral with the saw to get open rings.
  3. Close each ring and solder it so it does not open.
  4. Join the rings following the chosen pattern.

Patterns #

From the simple link (cable) to braided ones such as Byzantine. See types of chain.

Loop-in-loop #

An ancient technique (Egyptian and Roman) in which wire loops are interlocked with each other, without soldering, to form a flexible chain.

Finishing #

Pickle, wash and polish. A clasp is added at the end.

Step by step #

  1. Make the rings. Coil wire on a mandrel and cut it into rings.
  2. Close. Solder or close each ring leaving no gap.
  3. Link. Join each ring to the previous ones following the pattern.
  4. Check. Verify that none opens.
  5. Polish. Smooth the solder joints and tumble.
  6. Add the clasp. Add the clasp and end ring.

Tools and materials #

  • Wire of the chosen gauge
  • Coiling mandrel and pliers
  • Torch and solder
  • Clasp (clasps)

Common mistakes #

  • Rings of different sizes.
  • Unpolished solder joints that break.
  • Choosing wire too fine for the use.
  • Not checking the chain's flexibility.

See also #

This entry was drafted with the help of AI and is pending review by the author.