Why does jewelry cost what it costs? What is behind the price

Two rings that look the same can cost very differently. The price of a jewel adds several layers, and understanding them helps you compare with judgment.

The layers of the price #

1. Metal. It depends on the weight, the purity (14 or 18 karat, 925 silver…) and the price of the day. In gold and platinum it weighs a lot; in a silver jewel, less.
2. Stones. They depend on type, size, quality and origin. A lab-grown diamond costs less than a natural one with the same characteristics.
3. Design. Time for ideas, drawing, prototypes and tests. An original design has a value that is not in the weight.
4. Making. Hours of work: cutting, soldering, setting. A handmade piece takes many more than a mass-produced one. See casting and techniques such as filigree.
5. Finishing. Polish, texture, patina, rhodium or plating. See finishes.
6. Workshop and tools. Rent, tools, gas, acids, insurance, and the metal lost when filing and polishing.
7. Brand and communication. Photography, website, fairs, packaging and the reputation of whoever signs the piece.
8. Distribution. The shop's margin, taxes, shipping and warranty.

Why handmade costs more #

An industrial jewel spreads the cost of design and molds over thousands of units. A handmade piece spreads one person's time over one or a few pieces, in exchange for a quality and singularity not found in mass production. See buying handmade jewelry with judgment.

How to tell if the price is reasonable #

• Ask for the weight and purity of the metal and the characteristics of the stones.
• Compare with similar pieces: same metal, weight and finish.
• Be wary of a price far below the value of the metal.
• Ask what is included: warranty, resizing, maintenance.

See also: what to ask before buying.