Contemporary Jewelry

Renewal of the language of jewelry, towards the free expression existing in the arts.
Contemporary jewelry is a form of artistic expression and jewelry design that departs from traditional and conventional jewelry styles. It is characterized by its experimental, innovative, and conceptual approach, where jewelers explore new materials, techniques, and ways of presenting jewelry as a form of art.

What is contemporary jewelry? #

Contemporary jewelry, also called art jewelry or studio jewelry, is designed as a work of expression: the idea matters more than the value of the gold or stones. It uses very varied materials and is conceived in relation to the body.

Unlike traditional jewelry, which focuses on aesthetic beauty and the intrinsic value of precious materials, contemporary jewelry values personal expression, narrative, and creativity. Contemporary jewelers can use a wide variety of materials, including not only precious metals and gemstones but also plastics, ceramics, wood, paper, fabric, and other unconventional materials.

Manufacturing and design techniques #

Contemporary jewelry is also distinguished by its focus on experimenting with manufacturing and design techniques. Jewelers may employ traditional techniques such as setting, forging, and soldering, but they also explore new techniques such as 3D printing, laser cutting, water jet cutting, enameling, weaving, and any other technique that allows them to carry out their creative vision.

Regarding forms and designs, contemporary jewelry often departs from traditional jewelry shapes and symbols and instead embraces abstraction, experimentation with form, and the use of unconventional structures. Contemporary jewelry can be sculptural, abstract, or even take on forms inspired by nature, architecture, technology, and other aspects of contemporary culture.

In summary, contemporary jewelry is a form of jewelry that seeks to go beyond established boundaries, exploring new forms, materials, techniques, and concepts to create unique and expressive pieces. It is a field of constant evolution and expansion, where contemporary jewelers challenge conventions and create wearable works of art that transcend mere decorative function.

Schools and artists #

• The Padua School (Italy) renewed jewelry from the 1950s on.
• Gijs Bakker (Netherlands) questioned the traditional jewel with conceptual pieces.
• Otto Künzli is known for Gold Makes Blind (1980): a gold ball inside a black rubber ring.
• Ted Noten casts everyday objects in acrylic.

Frequently asked questions #

How does it differ from classic jewelry? Classic jewelry seeks the value and beauty of the material; contemporary jewelry seeks to say something, even with humble materials.

Can it be worn every day? Many pieces can; others are more sculpture than accessory.

Where is it bought? In galleries, art-jewelry fairs and workshops, or directly from the artist.