Inherited jewelry: how to identify, keep and transform it

An inherited jewel has material value and the value of memory. Before cleaning, repairing or transforming it, it helps to understand what you have.

How to find out what jewel you inherited #

• Look at the marks. Inside the band or on the clasp there are often numbers (925, 750, 585) and maker's or assay marks. See hallmarks and punches.
• Photograph everything in good light and note the mounting, the clasp and the workmanship.
• Ask in the family: whose it was, when it was bought, whether there is a receipt.
• If in doubt, consult a jeweler or gemologist to identify the metal and stones. See how to tell if gold is real.

How to tell what period it is from #

The period is deduced from style, materials and technique: curved lines and nature (Art Nouveau), geometry and contrast (Art Deco), hair and jet (Victorian period). See jewelry styles and periods and Victorian hair jewelry.

Is it worth more because it is old? #

An old jewel can be worth more, but not always. Quality, condition, maker, period, metal, stones and provenance all matter. To know its value you need an appraisal by a professional.

How to keep it #

• Clean it gently, with no harsh products or ultrasonic if you do not know what stones it has. See cleaning jewelry with stones.
• Store it apart, in a cloth or a pouch. See how to store jewelry.
• Check the prongs and clasps from time to time. See professional maintenance.

Restore it or leave it as it is? #

The patina of the years is part of its story. Restoring is appropriate when there is a risk of losing a stone or of it breaking; it should be done by someone experienced, keeping the original parts. See restoration and repair.

If you do not wear it #

A jewel with sentimental value can be kept, framed with its story written down, shared out, or turned into another one.

Transform it without losing its story #

You can reuse the stones and metal of an old jewel in a new design, such as a ring turned into a pendant. Keep photographs of the original piece, keep some part (such as the clasp or a seal) and talk to the jeweler about what you want to keep.